Banks Peninsula Track - Hidden Gem in New Zealand
You have the choice between a 2 or 3-day self-guided walk. I did the 3-day walk. Absorb the scenery and wildlife as you walk at your own pace. Each night you stay at unique cottages near the beach with basic facilities and fully equipped kitchens. The cottages have stocked fridges and pantries with reasonably priced food/drinks that you can purchase with the honesty system. There is a maximum of 16 people on the track each day. There is the option to book a private room with bedding and towels. If you're not wanting to carry your bag, there is an option of pack cartage.
Getting to Onuku
After the spectacular drive into Akaroa, you can leave your car at Mt Vernon Lodge (where the track finishes). At 5.30pm a bus takes you from the Akaroa post office to Onuku.
There are spectacular views of Akaroa Harbour. You have the option of sleeping in the small ‘stargazers’ where you can lie in your bed and see the stars through the clear roof.
Day 1: Onuku to Flea Bay (4-6 hours, 11km)
After leaving Onuka mobile phone coverage is limited.
This day is the hardest day. Immediately the track is steep until you reach the highest point on the walk known as Trig GG. The 360-degree panoramic view is a great reward for reaching the top. This is the best view on the walk and a perfect stop for lunch. On a good day, you can see the Southern Alps.
Shortly after Trig GG you will start the descent on a vehicle road until you reach Mortlock's Mistake. Then you will follow a stream through the lush forest. You will pass 4 waterfalls and the last has access behind the water.
The cottage is 400m from the beach and Pōhatu marine reserve.
Between October and mid-January, there is a free penguin tour in the evening. You can witness small penguins and yellow-eyed penguins come ashore and go to their nesting sites in the evening.
Day 2: Flea Bay to Stony Bay (2-4 hours, 8km)
Before you start walking, you have the option to kayak within the Pōhatu Marine Reserve. A guide kayaks with you in the bay and explains the wildlife. You will likely see plenty of seals playing in the water. Dependent on the time of year you may see penguins. If you are lucky you may see dolphins.
The track takes you along the scenic coastline with towering cliffs and several bays.
Along the way is a shelter built against a rock wall. Next to this shelter is Seal Cave where you can observe seals playing in the water and lying on rocks.
After Seal Cave, you will follow the steep track to the ridge where there will be spectacular views of Pompey's Pillar.
The track follows the coastline before a steep descent to the beach. The cottage is located about 100 metres from the beach.
Stony Bay cottage was my favourite even though it had no electricity. There is a beautiful garden with a plethora of plants and birdlife. The verandah and outdoor tables are great for outdoor dining. The garden also has a homemade pool table with paint buckets as pockets.
The cottage has an open fireplace, log burner, gas cooking, barbecue and candles for lighting.
You can have a shower that is built around a large tree. Alternatively, you can take an outdoor bath by lighting a fire underneath to heat the water.
Day 3: Stony Bay to Akaroa (4-6 hours, 10km)
Start the walk by following the Stony Bay stream gradually uphill. 3.5km into the walk, you will reach a steep 1km section full of tall trees, large ferns, birdsongs and tributary streams.
You emerge from the forest into the shrubland with amazing views. The steep track will briefly continue uphill until the final 3km descent to Akaroa through open grassland. It's a beautiful way to finish the walk with Akaroa harbour on your left and towering Taraterehu Bluff to your right.
Fish and chips in Akaroa was a delicious reward.
